Periyar Tiger Reserve and Thekkady: Kerala's Wild Heart.
Thekkady is the gateway to Periyar, one of India's most celebrated protected forests. The reserve lies in the Cardamom Hills of the southern Western Ghats, about 186 km from Kochi, close to the Tamil Nadu border. Thekku is the Malayalam word for teak, which gives Thekkady its name, while Periyar means "big river."
A reserve with a long history.
Periyar began as a sanctuary in 1934, and the lake at its centre dates to 1895, when the British dammed the river. Part of the sanctuary came under Project Tiger in 1978, and the area was declared an elephant reserve in 1991. The region is counted among the world's 18 biodiversity hotspots. Sources give its size as anywhere from about 777 to 925 sq km.
Wildlife.
Elephants are the stars here and are often seen along the lake shore. The reserve also shelters Nilgiri tahr, evergreen and semi-evergreen forest, and many birds, flowers and butterflies. Tigers live here too, but they are rarely seen. Birders can look for Malabar hornbills, grey herons and jungle fowl.
The boat ride.
A boat ride on Periyar Lake is the classic way to see the reserve. The Forest Department and KTDC both run five trips a day, from 7:30 am to 3:30 pm, and each lasts about 90 minutes. Early morning and late afternoon give the best chances of seeing animals at the water's edge. Fees differ between the two operators, so check current rates before booking.
Beyond the boat.
Eco-tourism programmes include day and night treks, camping and bamboo rafting. Bamboo rafting is a full day of trekking and rafting, the night trek lasts about three hours, and the Tiger Trail means camping inside the forest. Activities have limited daily capacity, so book ahead.
Nearby, Kumily is a busy plantation town known for its spice gardens. The Mangala Devi Temple, built inside the reserve, is another popular stop.
Planning your visit.
- Getting there: Cochin International Airport is the nearest international airport. The reserve has a single entry point, in Thekkady village, 4 km from Kumily, and buses and auto-rickshaws run between the two.
- Inside the park: Private vehicles are not allowed. Visitors take a shuttle bus to the boat ramp.
- When to go: Winter, from November to January, is the best time. Another guide suggests September to March for greenery and birdwatching.
- Fees: Published entry and boat fees vary a lot between sources. Confirm current rates on the reserve's official website, periyartigerreserve.org, before you go.
